February 28 2010

What's Hangin' at Louis Vuitton? Spring 2010 Preview

Posted Feb 28, 2010

Welcome to the Louis Vuitton wonderland of Marc Jacobs…full of fox tails, trinkets and mountain backpacks to accompany well heeled jet-set campers, serial mismachers and globetrotting adventurers with a youthful exuberance that defies logic. Before I dig in, let me shamelessly admit that I know fashion week just passed in NY and that that’s probably what I should be focusing on right now, but I felt compelled, as so many of you looking forward to the warmer months, to talk about fashion that’s meant to be flaunted in the very near future — in Spring & Summer 2010. My target: Marc Jacob’s collection of LVs for the green season.

Jacobs is well known for his eclectic mixes on the runway, that to the trained eye, somehow, sometimes, work. This time however, dare I say, he let his style overpower the very brand he is supposed to promote. I wonder how it’s possible to make Louis Vuitton, the darling of luxury brands, seem unattractive? Well, he unfortunately managed to do just that in my opinion. Individually, certain pieces of the lineup have just the right mix of originality and classic functionality that Vuitton is known for. On the whole however, I find that the collection lacks an overall theme, at least not one that is in tune to what the Louis Vuitton brand stands for. It is as if almost every piece is designed as a special edition, which in itself takes away the appeal of what special eds are all about.

I also find some of his pieces to be strangely cocky and utterly tasteless…like the two thousand dollar GARBAGE BAG! Watch it, I say, because you might just get what you wish for! Ever hear of, “you are what you wear?” I’m sorry, but if the only reason you are wearing a bag is to be controversial or show a forced sense of humor, then this might be right, otherwise, it’s over the hill in my book.

Finally, I feel left out. What about those who love new models with a more classic feel? A few crumbs of clean sophisticated styling…but not more. It was about appealing to a Bubble Gum crowd. Not that there’s anything wrong with Bubble Gum! I just think that if he’s not careful, he will soon be replaced, despite the tremendous popularity of some his earlier collaborations with Louis Vuitton. There is no sense in alienating a brand’s biggest customer base in what is obviously an attempt to reach a younger audience. The only way I see some of these pieces as wearable is a la Vicoria Beckham: with head to toe black (Google it!), which is kind of sad, considering it will be Spring after all.

Though I love some of the color gradient canvas work to liven up a Spring & Summer wardrobe, I can’t help but feel sorry for that poor little fox that served as decoration, while some of the other pieces are just overloaded. Then again, fashion is often like a pendulum, if goes too far in one direction or the other before finding its rightful place. But the question remains: does a brand like Louis Vuitton need a revival, or are they just playing with fire? Why try to fix and fiddle with a well oiled machine? I think sometimes it’s just better to stick to the basics, and add in a twist here and there to keep things exciting.